Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.